By Nadia Leonardi
The nuances of the color of the skin are due to a different melanization which is a molecule synthesized in certain cutaneous cells and which allows the pigmentation of the skins.
In black skin, we note that black melanin (or eumelanin) predominates, which makes it possible to fight more effectively against UV rays from the sun. Within a face, you can have up to 3 different colors, which during detanning will be even more characteristic, especially on the chin, forehead or neck where the pigmentation is more accentuated, including on the eyes.
Although we have a difference in terms of colors, they have common characteristics: black skin acts as a shield and is little affected by aging induced by the sun. It is therefore more toned and more compact than white skin. These are also skins that wrinkle little. Black skin is better armed than white skin against aging.
Black skins suffer from climatic variations and are subject to certain environmental factors such as heat or humidity. In winter, this results in dry, dull, gray or white skin, the skin becomes rough, flaky and itchy. This is why women use very moisturizing and non-greasy creams to compensate for this problem, such as Hydrance riche d’Avène, Hydranorme Roche-Posay or Dexeryl.
Major problem: they have hyperseborrhoea often accompanied by inflammatory cysts which after healing give way to a pigment spot.
This is called post-inflammatory pigment spots. We also find this type of spots that remain very visible, even years after the trauma on the scars after small cuts, light burns or deeper wounds. These are skins that mark. Dark-skinned men are also affected by beard folliculitis likely to develop acne pimples.
One might think that these are resistant skin because they are thick, but they remember all the previous anti-acne treatments. These skins are therefore weakened, with the risk of rapid burns if the peels are too strong, the skin reacting like a sponge in places.
It is therefore very important to treat them gently. For this, I use peels with a high pH, which are therefore gentle, which eliminate the stratum corneum without irritating the skin, which could lead to the risk of hyperpigmentation in places.
Eliminate pigment spots
To eliminate pigment spots, I recommend first treating the seborrhoeic area with salicylic acid-based peels, followed by the extraction of comedones. They cause very little desquamation and do not lead to social eviction. These treatments must be accompanied by a follow-up at home which takes over from the professional peeling. For example, in the morning a cream based on the natural acid of willow bark: salicylic acid, known since antiquity for its powers against acne and do not forget to apply a sun protection product to high index. In the evening, a restorative and antibacterial cream containing zinc, for example, can be used occasionally on inflamed cysts, alternating with a depigmenting exfoliating cream (Phytic Crème by mene&moy, Whitening Cream by Bioface, Pigment Regulator by Skinceuticals).
The peeling sessions are to be carried out every 15 days for two months. Initially oral zinc supplementation will be advised, and if the acne is too severe, antibiotic therapy may be necessary.
One can note over the course of the treatments, a notable improvement of the seborrhea, a reduction in the microcysts and also a reduction in the pigmentary impregnation. I recommend following these sessions with a specific treatment for dark spots in order to unify the complexion and give light to the skin.
My SKIN’ECLIPSE method for example (between 3 sessions and 5 sessions) is a technology offering an innovative personalized treatment combining light therapy with depigmenting cosmetic products. This specific concept also takes care of dark circles and certain parts of the body: face, hands, feet, knees, buttocks, often pigmented areas in black skin, frequent request from patients who want to re-harmonize the color difference of these areas.
For black skin that does not present any particular problem, superficial peels based on glycolic acid will be carried out every 15 days to give radiance, have a unifying action and tighten the skin texture.
The danger of self-medication
This is the story of a 23-year-old young woman of Senegalese origin with no particular skin problem but who had a pimple on her cheek. This unsightly pimple has given way to a pigmented scar. In search of a cream that could make this stain disappear, this young woman searched the internet for testimonials and solutions to this problem and went to a store in Paris that marketed lightening cosmetics. The instructions for use specified that the application should only be carried out on the elbows and knees, but after consulting the seller, he was advised to apply it every evening just a little on these imperfections. Over the course of the applications, this cream burned her skin, giving way to reactive hyperpigmentation. So beware of all its creams sold without prescriptions that can whiten the skin. And do not treat yourself without professional advice because all the creams sold without prescriptions can irritate but also whiten the skin irreversibly.
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