The aging of the skin is an inevitable phenomenon, it is however more or less rapid according to several elements which can accelerate the aging of the skin, such as hormonal aging in postmenopausal women, tobacco, diet and especially exposure to the sun.
There are many methods to treat the wrinkles : the anti wrinkle creamstechniques without intervention, injections of hyaluronic acid and plastic surgery.
In this chapter, we review the anti wrinkle creams and techniques without intervention.
The role of an anti-wrinkle cream
Anti-wrinkle creams and serums and most anti-aging care will therefore have the effect of reducing the harmful effects of the sun and protecting the skin of the sun and to stimulate the regeneration of the elastic fibers of the skin, in particular by means of exfoliation, according to a simple principle: when the superficial layer of the skin is exfoliated, its regeneration is stimulated in depth.
A anti-wrinkle cream or an anti-aging treatment will therefore act on two main fronts: protect from the sun and exfoliate.
The substances of the anti-wrinkle cream intended to protect from the sun:
– sunscreens, which, as their name suggests, protect the skin from the sun’s rays. The anti-wrinkle cream therefore acts like a sunscreen and there is generally a UV protection index on the packaging or the tube of the anti-wrinkle cream.
– Substances that reduce the harmful effects of the sun on the skin: these are generally anti-free radicals contained in the anti-wrinkle cream (vitamin E, vitamin C, carotene, trace elements such as zinc, selenium or silicon , polyphenols from green tea, grape seed, etc.).
The substances of the anti-wrinkle cream intended to exfoliate the skin:
– Exfoliation of the skin is achieved by means of various substances contained in the anti-wrinkle cream : fruit acids, AHA or alpha hydroxy acids, glycolic acid, vitamin A derivatives (retinol, retinaldehyde…)…
– The concentration of exfoliating substances can vary greatly from one anti-wrinkle cream to another or from one anti-ageing treatment to another and it is important to find out about this concentration and the composition of exfoliating substances because these are the latter which are likely to cause skin irritation (sensations of tightness, tingling, even dryness or redness of the skin) on the areas where the anti-wrinkle cream has been applied.
Finally, some anti wrinkle creams will aim to compensate for certain lacks of the skin, for example:
– the hormonal deficiency of the menopause by means of phyto estrogens contained in certain anti-wrinkle creams
– the dryness of the skin, a source of aggravation and deepening of wrinkles, by means of moisturizing active ingredients contained in certain anti-wrinkle creams.
Thanks to a better understanding of the epidermis and the appearance of new active ingredients, anti-aging creams are increasingly effective. But each active ingredient has its own function and is not suitable for all skin types. What’s in these products?
– The antioxidants : these anti-aging substances take the form of vitamins A, C, E, trace elements (zinc, selecium, silicon), plants (green tea, grape seeds) and algae. They allow to fight against free radicals, to improve the relief of the skin and to repair the damage caused by pollution. Antioxidant-based creams are recommended for thin, sparse skin.
– Vitamin A: frequently used to fight acne, this powerful active ingredient is replaced in anti-wrinkle creams by retinol, a less irritating derivative. It stimulates cell renewal, smoothing shallow fine lines and increases skin thickness. Their use is recommended from the age of 35 for prematurely wrinkled skin or from the age of 20, for prevention.
– AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids): these acids are present in citrus fruits, grapes and sugar cane. They benefit from an exfoliating power that eliminates dead cells from the epidermis, moisturizes and smoothes the features to revive the radiance of the complexion. To be preferred in case of thick skin (tobacco) or damaged by the sun. Also avoid if skin is too reactive to the sun.
In addition to these “traditional” molecules, new formulas have recently appeared, inspired by aesthetic medicine techniques used by dermatologists. There are therefore creams aimed at stimulating the production of collagen and elastin, others to promote the regeneration of tissues in a “laser” way and “botox-like” treatments inspired by botulinum toxin to reduce the contraction of the lines. .
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